连衣裙 - 美国大都会艺术博物馆展品查阅

品名（中）	连衣裙
品名（英）	Dress
入馆年号	2005年，2005.61a, b
策展部门	服装研究所（Costume Institute）
创作者
创作年份	公元 1770 - 公元 1780
创作地区
分类
尺寸
介绍（中）	这件礼服首次引起博物馆的注意是在2004年的展览"危险的关系：18世纪的时尚与家具"中借出的。这件礼服是服装学院最奢华的宫廷礼服之一，以一个代表女士"休息室"的小插曲为背景，因其非凡的光彩和色彩的清新而引人注目。它被发现时状态完美，没有任何改动，是法国纺织制造商艺术的杰作。与其他这种形式的礼服一样，精心编织的织锦织物也伴随着passementerie装饰。装饰不仅与织物的颜色相匹配，而且以抽象的形式重复了作为织物主要主题的小花束尽管它符合当时高雅的着装要求，但紧身胸衣前面的纽扣闭合是18世纪后半叶的发展。以前，地上部分不会在紧身胸衣上闭合。紧身胸衣裸露的部分被一种叫做胃的倒三角形织物所掩盖。它以紧身胸衣和衬裙相搭配，传达出一种超速的感觉。这件礼服和蓝色礼服一样，具有围脖或背心式腹部的创新，缝在上衣上，要么别上，要么像这两件礼服一样，在正前方扣上扣子。通常，覆盖的黄杨木纽扣重复了礼服纺织品设计中的细节。
介绍（英）	This gown first came to the Museum's attention when it was lent for the 2004 exhibition "Dangerous Liaisons: Fashion and Furniture in the Eighteenth Century." Set among The Costume Institute's most lavish court gowns in a vignette representing a ladies' "withdrawing room," this dress stood out because of its exceptional brilliance and the freshness of its color. Found in a perfect state, with no alterations, it is a masterpiece of the French textile maker's art. As with other gowns of this form, the elaborately brocaded fabric has been woven with an accompanying passementerie trim. The trim not only matches the colors of the fabric but also repeats, in abstracted form, the little sprigged floral bouquets that appear as the textile's primary motif. For all its conformity to the decorous sartorial requirements of the time, the button-closing front of the bodice is a development of the last half of the eighteenth century. Previously, the overgown did not close over the corset. The part of corset that was left exposed was concealed by an inverted triangle of fabric called the stomacher. Pinned in, it conveyed the impression of an overdress with matching underbodice and petticoat. This gown, like the blue gown, has the innovation of a compiegne, or vest-like stomacher, which is sewn onto the overdress and either pinned or, as in the case of these two gowns, buttoned closed at center front. Typically, the covered boxwood buttons repeat a detail taken from the design of the gown's textile.