哀悼合奏 - 美国大都会艺术博物馆展品查阅

品名（中）	哀悼合奏
品名（英）	Mourning ensemble
入馆年号	2009年，2009.300.633a–c
策展部门	服装研究所（Costume Institute）
创作者
创作年份	公元 1870 - 公元 1872
创作地区
分类
尺寸
介绍（中）	黑色丧服在19世纪下半叶英国维多利亚女王（1819-1901）统治时期达到顶峰。维多利亚女王从丈夫阿尔伯特亲王（1819-1861）去世后一直到自己去世前都在哀悼。有了这些标准，人们认为在三个月到两年半的时间里，在为亲人或君主哀悼时穿上黑色衣服是一种社会必备条件。严格的社会习俗适用于所有阶层，并且可以在任何价位买到。那些付不起换衣服的人经常把他们的常规衣服改成黑色。要穿多少黑色取决于哀悼的几个不同阶段；全套丧服是纯黑色的，而半套丧服允许佩戴者添加少量白色或紫色。哀悼服装往往遵循当时的时尚轮廓，很像这件精致的全套哀悼服。这件衣服展现了典型的19世纪70年代的高级风格，比如不对称、裙摆和装饰性下摆细节。精致的细节是用黑色褶皱绉织的，这是一种用于丧服的常见织物，这表明主人可能是为特殊场合制作了这件衣服。
介绍（英）	Black mourning dress reached its peak during the reign of Queen Victoria (1819-1901) of the United Kingdom in the second half of the 19th century. Queen Victoria wore mourning from the death of her husband, Prince Albert (1819-1861), until her own death. With these standards in place, it was considered a social requisite to don black from anywhere between three months to two and a half years while grieving for a loved one or monarch. The stringent social custom existed for all classes and was available at all price points. Those who could not afford the change of dress often altered and dyed their regular garments black. The amount of black to be worn was dictated by several different phases of mourning; full mourning ensembles were solid black while half mourning allowed the wearer to add a small amount of white or purple. Mourning clothing tended to follow the fashionable silhouette of the period, much like this exquisitely finished full mourning dress. This dress shows typical high style 1870s touches such as asymmetry, the bustle back and decorative hem details. The refined details are worked in black crinkled crepe, a common textile used for mourning attire, which indicates that the owner may have had the garment produced for a special occasion.