披肩 - 美国大都会艺术博物馆展品查阅

品名（中）	披肩
品名（英）	Shawl
入馆年号	2009年，2009.300.2212
策展部门	服装研究所（Costume Institute）
创作者	Anthony Berrus
创作年份	公元 1853 - 公元 1857
创作地区
分类
尺寸
介绍（中）	当提花织机的穿孔卡片系统在19世纪初得到完善时，它被应用的主要工作之一是编织"佩斯利"或"羊绒"披肩，其中一些是为展览而制作的。这种展览披肩通常与带有"圆锥体"或"boteh"主题的常见例子无关；相反，它们描绘了自然主义的植物主题或充满动物和人类形态的异国主题这条披巾的构成和复杂性表明它被认为是一件展览作品，可能是1855年巴黎世界博览会的标志。在编织这种中国风的幻想时，使用了一条三乘一的斜纹，每厘米大约60纬纱。提花织机将配备大约20万个穿孔卡片来引导图案的波动，这在披肩的三分之二以上是独一无二的。中心主题是一个漏洞，上面挂着各种各样的外来植被；这里居住着各种各样的动物、鱼类和鸟类，其中一些来自中国神话。可以观察到微型人从树上摘水果、喝茶、打猎或进行其他日常活动。披肩的两端是一艘装备精良的游艇。所有的主题都设置在中国和波斯影响的混合建筑元素中。
介绍（英）	When the punch-card system of the Jacquard loom was perfected in the early 19th century, one of the primary jobs to which it was applied was the weaving of "paisley" or "cashmere" shawls, some of which were made for exhibition. Such exhibition shawls frequently had little to do with common examples which carried the "cone" or "boteh" motif; rather they depicted naturalistic botanical subjects or exotic motifs populated with animal and human forms. The composition and complexity of this shawl point to its having been conceived as an exhibition piece, possibly the harlequin banded border would indicate-the 1855 Universal Exhibition in Paris. In weaving this chinoiserie fantasy, a three-by-one twill, approximately sixty wefts per centimeter was used. The Jacquard loom would have been fitted with about 200,000 punch cards to direct the wave of the pattern, which is unique over two-thirds of the shawl. The central subject is a leak over which hang varieties of exotic vegetation; it is populated by a diverse collection of equally fanciful beasts, fishes, and birds, some of which are drawn from Chinese mythology. Miniature people can be observed plucking fruit from trees, enjoying tea, hunting or going about other daily activities. At either end of the shawl is a splendidly outfitted pleasure barge. All the motifs are set among intermingling architectural elements of both Chinese and Persian influence.