Uçetek Entari或三裙长袍 - 美国大都会艺术博物馆展品查阅

品名（中）	Uçetek Entari或三裙长袍
品名（英）	Uçetek Entari or Three-Skirt Robe
入馆年号	1954年，C.I.54.61.2
策展部门	伊斯兰艺术（Islamic Art）
创作者
创作年份	公元 1850 - 公元 1925
创作地区	制造于: 可能是巴尔干半岛或安纳托利亚（Made in: probably Balkans or Anatolia）
分类	主礼服女装（Main dress-Womenswear）
尺寸	长 at CB: 57 英寸 (144.8 厘米)
介绍（中）	这款 üçetek entari 或三裙长袍，低领口和长袖，末端装饰精美，是 19 世纪后期奥斯曼女性时尚服装的特征，中上层阶级女性在特殊场合穿着。这件长袍的袖子只从腋下到肘部缝合，从那里挂下来，露出蓝色丝绸刺绣的蓝色丝绸衬里，上面有花卉刺绣，与主面料的红色形成鲜明对比。典型的珂蚁正面是敞开的，露出柔软的鲑鱼红色丝绸衬里的一部分。后来，恩塔里被重新衬上波尔多红丝绸。本来会穿在下面的汗衫或gömlek只能沿着手臂和领口部分可见。带有装饰腰带扣或细腰带的腰带可将腰部的 entari 固定在一起。虽然整体形状与伊斯坦布尔和安纳托利亚其他地区所穿的例子相比，但这件长袍呈现出巴尔干传统的共同特征。这些定义是长袖以形状袖口结束，深U形领口，广泛使用用金属线制成的passementerie装饰带来标记裙子部分的部分，长袍的边缘或长袍的手臂，以及带有加宽裙子的贴身腰部。为了符合巴尔干社区女性的品味，这款entari的面料呈现出闪闪发光的效果，并在整体刺绣图案中广泛使用金属线。例如，在图案中看到的单个葡萄的浮雕口音上应用了一条特殊的矩形包裹金属绳。
介绍（英）	This üçetek entari or three-skirt robe with low neckline and long sleeves with elaborately decorated ends is characteristic of an Ottoman woman’s fashionable outfit of the later nineteenth century, worn by women of middle and upper classes on special occasions. The sleeves of this robe are only seamed from the underarm to the elbow, from where they would hang and reveal the blue silk embroidered lining in blue silk with floral embroidery, creating a colorful contrast with the red of the main fabric. Typical for entaris, the front is open, revealing parts of the soft salmon-red silk lining. The entari was later relined with a bordeaux red silk. The undershirt or gömlek that would have been worn underneath would only be partly visible along the arms and the neckline. A belt with decorative girdle clasp or a fine sash would hold the entari together at the waist. While the overall shape compares with examples worn in Istanbul and other parts of Anatolia, this robe presents features common for the Balkan tradition. These are defined by long sleeves ending in shaped cuffs, a deep U-shaped neckline, extensive use of passementerie trim bands made with metal thread applied to mark the sections of the skirt part, the robe’s edges or the arms of the robe, and a fitted waist with a widening of the skirt. In line with women’s taste of the Balkan communities, the fabric of this entari presents a glittery effect and makes extensive use of metallic threads in the overall embroidered patterning. For example, a special rectangular wrapped metallic cord was applied to the relief accents on individual grapes seen in the pattern.