披肩 - 美国大都会艺术博物馆展品查阅

品名（中）	披肩
品名（英）	Shawl
入馆年号	2019年，2019.566
策展部门	伊斯兰艺术（Islamic Art）
创作者
创作年份	公元 1800 - 公元 1899
创作地区	制造于: 印度, 克什米尔（Made in: India, Kashmir）
分类	纺织品（Textiles）
尺寸	长 120 英寸 (304.8 厘米) 宽 53 1/2 英寸 (135.9 厘米)
介绍（中）	克什米尔披肩以莫卧儿皇帝阿克巴（1555-1605年在位）宫廷中精致的男性服装/长袍的一部分而闻名。到18世纪后期，它们成为欧洲的时尚服装，并在19世纪上半叶达到了流行的顶峰。法国的约瑟芬皇后和英国的艾玛·汉密尔顿等时尚领袖拥有大量克什米尔披肩系列，与当时宽松的"帝国"时尚相得益彰。到19世纪中叶，设计变得更加密集和精致。传统的松果图案变得高度风格化，以适应欧洲人的口味。这条披肩的精心设计是 19 世纪印度为英国和欧洲市场编织的典型披肩。虽然最好的克什米尔披肩由柔软而昂贵的羊绒羊毛（喜马拉雅山羊的柔软下毛）制成，并在织机上编织了设计，但 1830 年代以来的许多例子，例如这个，都倾向于刺绣以实现类似的装饰方案。这种技术更容易，更快速地制造，因此可以更好地应对19世纪下半叶欧洲不断增长的需求和市场。
介绍（英）	Kashmir shawls are known for being part of the sophisticated male dress/garderobe at the court of the Mughal Emperor Akbar (r. 1555–1605). They became items of fashionable dress in Europe by the late 18th century and had reached the peak of their popularity there during the first half of the 19th century. Leaders of fashion such as the Empress Josephine in France and Emma Hamilton in Britain owned large collections of Kashmiri shawls, which elegantly complemented the loose-fitting "Empire" fashions of the time. By the mid-19th century, the designs became denser and more elaborate. The traditional pine-cone pattern became highly stylized to accommodate European tastes. The elaborate design of this shawl is typical of the kind woven in India for the British and European market in the 19th century. While the finest Kashmiri shawls are made of soft and expensive pashmina wool (the soft under-hair of the Himalayan goat) and have designs woven on the loom, many examples from the 1830s onwards, such as this one, favored embroidery to achieve similar decorative schemes. Such a technique was easier and quicker to manufacture and thus better positioned to respond to the growing demand and market in Europe in the second half of the 19th century.