连衣裙 - 美国大都会艺术博物馆展品查阅

品名（中）	连衣裙
品名（英）	Dress
入馆年号	1993年，1993.17a, b
策展部门	服装研究所（Costume Institute）
创作者
创作年份	公元 1725 - 公元 1740
创作地区
分类
尺寸
介绍（中）	这件casaquin（夹克紧身胸衣）和衬裙以其高度原创的装饰而闻名，它结合了中国风格的意象和四大洲的寓言人物，是18世纪女性服饰的一个独特例子。用羊毛而不是丝绸进行刺绣也是罕见的。神奇的鸟类、宝塔和奇异的花朵是17世纪末和18世纪初中国风格的常见元素，但将四大洲解释为小丑般的人物是非典型的，这表明了17世纪设计师让·贝兰的怪诞影响。尽管阴影下的大花朵与1730年代机织丝绸中的花朵相对应，但整体刺绣与装饰纺织品中的刺绣更为密切流畅的casaquin线条和圆形衬裙充分展示了色彩鲜艳的图案。这种源自工人阶级服装的两件套连衣裙在17世纪20年代被用作时尚的非正式服装。富有的女性会把衬裙套在平底锅上，打造出令人向往的现代轮廓。这件特殊服装上刺绣的特殊性质表明，它是为了在特殊场合穿着。
介绍（英）	Remarkable for its highly original ornamentation, which combines chinoiserie imagery and allegorical figures of the Four Continents, this casaquin (jacket-bodice) and petticoat is a singular example of eighteenth century woman's dress. The execution of the embroidery in wool rather than in silk is also rare. Fantastic birds, pagodas, and exotic flowers are familiar elements of the chinoiseries style of the late seventeenth and early eighteenth centuries, but the interpretation of the Four Continents as jesterlike figures is atypical and shows the influence of the grotesques of the seventeenth-century designer Jean Berain. Although the large shaded flowers correspond to those in woven dress silks of the 1730s, the embroidery overall is more closely related to that seen in furnishing textiles. The exuberant and vividly colored motifs are displayed to advantage by the flowing lines of the casaquin and the rounded petticoat. This type of two-piece dress, derived from a working-class costume, was adopted as fashionable informal wear in the 1720s. Wealthy women would have worn the petticoat over a pannier to create the desirable contemporary silhouette. The exceptional nature of the embroidery on this particular costume suggests that it was intended to be worn for a special occasion.