佩蒂卡特 - 美国大都会艺术博物馆展品查阅

品名（中）	佩蒂卡特
品名（英）	Petticoat
入馆年号	1992年，1992.365
策展部门	服装研究所（Costume Institute）
创作者
创作年份	公元 1830 - 公元 1839
创作地区
分类
尺寸
介绍（中）	创建19世纪30年代轮廓的必要基础是紧身胸衣、衬裙和袖子支撑。这条棉质衬裙是用绳索绑起来的，可以将其变硬成圆形，将裙子向外推成钟形。这一时期的衬裙也是由马毛织物制成的，被称为海百合（来自法语单词"cren"，意思是马毛）。为了打造略微隆起的腰部，这件厚重的白色棉质紧身胸衣（1987.238）用细绳和邦宁加固，在中央前部有一个可放公共汽车的槽，还有一个大的内部口袋，用来放一块纸板，以压平腹部。胸衣的胸部和臀部的角撑可以让肉在上面和下面膨胀。紧身胸衣的领口是低而开放的，由露肩背带连接，可以进一步打开胸部。单独的袖子支撑（C.I.66.38.5a，b），由平纹细布制成，并与羽衣一起成形，完成了宽顶轮廓。它们用顶部和底部的抽绳固定在身体上，在手臂上形成了一个织物气球，在19世纪30年代和19世纪40年代缓慢向下滑动。套筒支撑也可以由羽绒枕头制成。
介绍（英）	The necessary underpinnings to create the 1830s silhouette were the corset, the petticoat, and sleeve supports. This cotton petticoat is corded which serves to stiffen it into a rounded shape that would push the skirts of the dress outward into a bell form. Petticoats in this period were also made of horsehair fabric and called crinolines (from the French word crin, meaning horsehair). To create the slightly raised waist, the heavy white cotton corset (1987.238) is reinforced with cording and boning and has a slot for a busk at center front, as well as a large interior pocket for a paperboard to flatten the abdomen. Gussets at the bust and hips of the corset serve to allow flesh to expand above and below. The neckline of the corset is low and open and is joined by off-the-shoulder straps, which serve to open the chest area further. The separate sleeve supports (C.I.66.38.5a, b), made of muslin and given shape with baleen, complete the wide-topped silhouette. Affixed to the body with drawstrings at the top and bottom, they created a balloon of fabric over the arm, which slipped slowly downward over the course of the 1830s and 1840s. Sleeve supports could also be made of down-filled pillows.