可用的衣服 - 美国大都会艺术博物馆展品查阅

品名（中）	可用的衣服
品名（英）	Habit à la disposition
入馆年号	1998年，1998.191a–d
策展部门	服装研究所（Costume Institute）
创作者
创作年份	公元 1780 - 公元 1790
创作地区
分类
尺寸
介绍（中）	闪闪发光的丝绸经过刺绣处理，即遵循投影应用程序指定的轮廓，可以裁剪并缝制成长袍和衬裙。两块侧裙板（其中一块的细节如图所示）、一块衬裙板，以及裙背、紧身胸衣和袖子的一码长，都用丝线和微小的银色亮片进行了华丽的处理，描绘了精心布置的象牙色缎带和粉色和绿色的抽象花朵尽管客户可以指定颜色、应用装饰和造型，但通常情况下，服装制作车间会提供各种已经刺绣的面板，客户可以从中进行选择。刺绣设计通常改编自图案书，通过猛扑、在有刺的卡通上撒上灰尘来将其转移到织物上，留下虚线的指导方针。为了在工作过程中保持永久性，用墨水对产生的点进行了描记敞开式长袍和衬裙，饰以饰边、腹部前片和蕾丝配饰，是18世纪女性的主要服饰形式。由于丝绸的奢华和刺绣的正式，这些面板可能是为法国长袍设计的，其宽大流畅的背部和裙子将是刺绣艺术的绝佳载体。
介绍（英）	The shimmering silk has been embroidered à la disposition, that is, following the contours dictated by the projected application, and is ready to be cut and sewn into a gown and petticoat. Two side skirt panels (a detail of one is pictured), a single petticoat panel, and a length of yardage for the skirt back, bodice, and sleeves are all sumptuously worked with silk floss accented by tiny silver sequins to depict meticulously arranged ivory ribbon swags and abstract floral sprays in pinks and greens. Although clients could specify colors, applied decoration, and styling, more often a dressmaking workshop would provide a variety of already embroidered panels from which the customer could select. Needlework designs, often adapted from pattern books, were transferred to the textile by pouncing, dusting over a pricked cartoon to leave dotted guidelines. The resulting dots were traced with ink for permanence during working. The open robe and petticoat-heavily embellished with trimmings, a stomacher front panel, and lace accessories-was the dominant form of dress for women in the eighteenth century. Because of the sumptuousness of the silk and the formality of the embroidery, these panels were probably meant for a robe à la française, the expansive and flowing back and skirts of which would be an excellent vehicle for the embroiderer's art.