带秋花和草的长袍（卡拉奥里） - 美国大都会艺术博物馆展品查阅

品名（中）	带秋花和草的长袍（卡拉奥里）
品名（英）	Noh Robe (Karaori) with Autumn Flowers and Grasses
入馆年号	1891年，91.1.80
策展部门	亚洲艺术（Asian Art）
创作者
创作年份	公元 1800 - 公元 1849
创作地区
分类	服装（Costumes）
尺寸	整体 (with collar): 高 69 英寸 (175.3 厘米); 宽 58 英寸 (147.3 厘米)
介绍（中）	Karaori，字面意思是"中国编织"，是一种坚硬的锦缎技术，采用均匀的纬向，其中长针的光泽丝线漂浮在未着色的丝绸斜纹布上，而箔覆盖的扁平线则绑在斜纹地面编织附近。僵硬的卡拉织锦缎不易垂坠，但它创造了棱角分明的效果，有助于唤起前贵妇的精神。开花草的唐鱼强调了女性的女性气质。戏剧长袍的选择是基于它的颜色和图案，而不是对主题的特定参考。长袍优雅的气场和演员的精神演绎，造就了剧中的中心人物形象。红色的底色（iro-ari）表示美丽的年轻女子的角色。图案受惯例的约束，但它们被纳入这样的变化中，以至于长袍很少相同。七宝-tusnagi（互锁圆圈）是用金箔扁平线编织的背景图案。源自佛教术语shiho（七宝或宝藏），其吉祥的含义使其在纺织品设计中很受欢迎，尤其是在能乐长袍中。
介绍（英）	Karaori, literally "Chinese Weave," is a stiff brocade technique that employs a uniform direction of weft in which long stitches of glossed silk threads are floated over an unglossed silk twill ground, while foil-covered flat threads are bound close to the twill ground weave. The stiff karaori brocade does not drape easily, but it creates an angular effect, helping to evoke the spirit of a former noblewoman. The karaori with flowering grasses emphasizes that woman's femininity. The choice of a robe for a play is based on both its color and pattern, but not on a specific reference to a motif. The aura from the elegance of the robe and the actor's spiritual interpretation create the central persona in the play. A red-ground color (iro-ari) indicates the role of a beautiful young woman. Motifs are governed by convention, but they are incorporated in such variations that robes are rarely identical. The shippo-tusnagi (interlocking circles) is the background motif woven in gold-foil flat threads. Derived from the Buddhist term shiho (seven jewels or treasures), its auspicious meaning led to its popularity in textile design, especially in Noh robes.