Chauble碎片 - 美国大都会艺术博物馆展品查阅

品名（中）	Chauble碎片
品名（英）	Chasuble Fragment
入馆年号	1946年，46.156.14
策展部门	伊斯兰艺术（Islamic Art）
创作者
创作年份	公元 1300 - 公元 1399
创作地区	可能制造于: 意大利（Probably made in: Italy）
分类	机织纺织品（Textiles-Woven）
尺寸	高 41 英寸 (104.1 厘米) 宽 22 英寸 (55.9 厘米)
介绍（中）	这片碎片很可能来自瑞士丘尔圣母升天大教堂使用的奢华纺织品——chasubb或圣物箱布，其姊妹碎片保存在大教堂的金库中。这是一种高度奢华的织物，由精细的丝绸和镀银金属线编织而成。在紫蓝色的缎面上编织着书法般的金色条纹，背面有滚动的藤叶，其中一些以动物的头部结尾。它们与饰有深红色四瓣花徽章的带子交替出现，周围环绕着龙和狮鹫等神奇的野兽。虽然阿拉伯语中反复出现的"al-Sultan al-Malik[al-Nasir]"铭文表明，这是苏丹al-Malik al-Nasir Muhammad ibn Qalawun（约1293–1342年在位）统治下的马穆鲁克埃及，但这些动物和文字也与东部伊斯兰土地上发现的动物和文字相似，在伊尔汗王朝统治下，那里编织了精致的纺织品作为送给马穆鲁克对手的礼物。然而，这种纺织品的内部结构和技术显示出与欧洲，特别是意大利纺织品制造业的结构相似性。这种纺织品中植物细节的独特风格进一步支持了这一点，这与伊斯兰世界的例子无法相比。一部意大利作品也可以解释马穆鲁克尊称拼写错误的原因几个世纪以来，伊斯兰纺织品和地毯在教堂环境中非常常见。从13世纪到15世纪，带有阿拉伯铭文的条纹奢华纺织品，比如这件，在地中海及其他地区的基督教和穆斯林精英中广受欢迎。在十四世纪和十五世纪，"国际风格"和相似品味的发展导致了在不同地区生产出具有共同装饰曲目的外观相似的织物，使其归属变得复杂。这个纺织品碎片就是其中之一。它的结构证明，意大利的纺织品生产在其织物中模仿了伊斯兰图案，因为伊斯兰纺织品被认为是享有盛誉的，并受到欧洲教堂和神职人员的高度尊重。
介绍（英）	This fragment is likely from a lavish textile either a chasuble or a reliquary cloth used in the Cathedral of St. Mary of the Assumption in Chur, Switzerland where its sister fragment is preserved in the Cathedral’s treasury. It is a highly luxurious fabric woven with fine silk and silver-gild metallic thread. Calligraphic golden bands with scrolling vine-leaves in the back – some of which end in animal heads – are woven against a purple-blue satin ground. They alternate with bands decorated by quatrefoil medallions in crimson red surrounded by fantastic beasts, such as dragons and griffins. While the repeated inscribed words in Arabic of ‘al-Sultan al-Malik [al-Nasir] suggest an attribution to Mamluk Egypt under Sultan al-Malik al-Nasir Muhammad ibn Qalawun (r. ca. 1293–1342), the animals and script also resemble those found in the eastern Islamic Lands, where under the Il-Khanids sophisticated textiles were woven as gifts for their Mamluk rivals. However, the inner architecture and technique of this textile reveals structural affinities with European, particularly Italian textile manufacture. This is further supported by a peculiar stylistic rendering of the vegetal details in this textile, which does not compare with examples from the Islamic world. An Italian production also would explain the misspelling of the Mamluk honorific titles. Through the centuries, Islamic textiles and carpets were very common in church contexts. From the thirteenth to the fifteenth century, striped luxurious textiles with Arabic inscriptions, such as this one, enjoyed popularity in Christian and Muslim elite contexts across the Mediterranean and beyond. In the fourteenth century and fifteenth century the development of an ‘international style’ and similar taste lead to the production of similar looking weavings with a shared decorative repertoire in different regions, complicating their attribution. This textile fragment is one of them. Its structure attests that Italian textile production imitated Islamic patterns in their weavings, as Islamic textiles were considered prestigious and highly esteemed by churches and the clergy in Europe.