晨礼服 - 美国大都会艺术博物馆展品查阅

品名（中）	晨礼服
品名（英）	Morning dress
入馆年号	2009年，2009.300.919
策展部门	服装研究所（Costume Institute）
创作者
创作年份	公元 1837 - 公元 1839
创作地区
分类
尺寸
介绍（中）	这件富有魅力的连衣裙展示了 1830 年代后期连衣裙的重要特征，其有趣的高度详细的小型纺织品和低矮的宽肩增强了胸部。同时期的资料将胸衣的聚集处理称为"胸花àla Sevigné"或"àla Maintenon"，指的是18世纪路易十四宫廷的时尚女性，他们的聚会模仿了不那么谦虚的锁骨。 19世纪中叶的女性剪影由合身的紧身胸衣和宽大的全裙组成。圆锥形裙子在 1830 年代之间发展起来，当时帝国轮廓的高腰降低，裙子变得更加钟形，到 1860 年代后期，裙子的丰满度被拉到后面，喧嚣发展起来。这一时期的喇叭裙在整个过程中逐渐增加，并得到了多种方法的支持。最初，支撑来自多层衬裙，由于重量和不适，这些衬裙被由鲸须、手杖和金属等材料制成的渐变箍组成的裙底所取代。这一时期的时尚使纺织品脱颖而出，因为裙子的表面积很大，多余的装饰相对较少。
介绍（英）	This charismatic dress shows important features of late 1830s dress in its intriguing highly detailed small-scale textile and its low wide shoulders which enhance the bust. Contemporaneous resources referred to the gathered treatment of the bodice as "corsage à la Sevigné" or ""à la Maintenon" referencing fashionable women of the 18th-century court of Louis XIV whose much less modest décolletage the gathering imitates. The female silhouette of the middle of the 19th century consisted of a fitted corseted bodice and wide full skirts. The conical skirts developed between the 1830s, when the high waist of the Empire silhouette was lowered and the skirts became more bell shaped, to the late 1860s, when the fullness of the skirts were pulled to the back and the bustle developed. The flared skirts of the period gradually increased in size throughout and were supported by a number of methods. Originally support came from multiple layers of petticoats which, due to weight and discomfort, were supplanted by underskirts comprised of graduated hoops made from materials such as baleen, cane and metal. The fashions during this time allowed the textiles to stand out because of the vast surface areas of the skirt and a relatively minimal amount of excess trim.