连衣裙 - 美国大都会艺术博物馆展品查阅

品名（中）	连衣裙
品名（英）	Dress
入馆年号	2009年，2009.300.618a, b
策展部门	服装研究所（Costume Institute）
创作者	Mme. Noll Gross【1831 至 1906】【美国人（出生于德国）】
创作年份	公元 1888
创作地区
分类
尺寸
介绍（中）	喧嚣的廓形虽然主要与 19 世纪下半叶有关，但起源于早期的时尚，作为礼服背面的简单凸起，例如 17 世纪末至 18 世纪初的曼图亚和 18 世纪末至 19 世纪初的帝国连衣裙。饱满的喧嚣廓形在 1860 年代后期首次出现在维多利亚时代，最初是裙子的丰满感移动到连衣裙的后面。这种丰满感是在走路的领带中绘制的，创造了一种时尚的泡芙。这种引领潮流的泡芙扩大了，然后由马毛、金属箍和羽绒等各种不同的东西支撑起来。这一时期的风格通常取自历史灵感，并覆盖各种类型的装饰和蕾丝。配饰娇小，可以专注于大型精致礼服。 1874年左右，风格发生了变化，裙子开始在前面拥抱大腿，而后面的喧嚣则减少到从腰部到火车的自然流动。这一时期的特点是深色、不对称的帷幔、超大的配饰和由全长外套创造的细长形式。在 1880 年代初，趋势再次发生变化，包括喧嚣，这一次它将发挥其最大潜力，一些裙子在后面看起来像一个完整的架子。首选的致密纺织品覆盖着修剪、珠饰、泡芙和蝴蝶结，以在视觉上进一步提升它们。女性的廓形一直持续到 1889 年，直到裙子开始缩小并为 S 曲线廓形让路。
介绍（英）	The bustle silhouette, although primarily associated with the second half of the 19th century, originated in earlier fashions as a simple bump at the back of the dress, such as with late 17th-early 18th century mantuas and late 18th- early 19th century Empire dresses. The full-blown bustle silhouette had its first Victorian appearance in the late 1860s, which started as fullness in skirts moving to the back of the dress. This fullness was drawn up in ties for walking that created a fashionable puff. This trendsetting puff expanded and was then built up with supports from a variety of different things such as horsehair, metal hoops and down. Styles of this period were often taken from historical inspiration and covered in various types of trim and lace. Accessories were petite and allowed for the focus on the large elaborate gowns. Around 1874, the style altered and the skirts began to hug the thighs in the front while the bustle at the back was reduced to a natural flow from the waist to the train. This period was marked by darker colors, asymmetrical drapery, oversize accessories and elongated forms created by full-length coats. Near the beginning of the 1880s the trends altered once again to include the bustle, this time it would reach its maximum potential with some skirts having the appearance of a full shelf at the back. The dense textiles preferred were covered in trimming, beadwork, puffs and bows to visually elevate them further. The feminine silhouette continued like this through 1889 before the skirts began to reduce and make way for the S-curve silhouette.