法庭陈述服 - 美国大都会艺术博物馆展品查阅

品名（中）	法庭陈述服
品名（英）	Court presentation dress
入馆年号	2009年，2009.300.3423a–c
策展部门	服装研究所（Costume Institute）
创作者	House of Worth【1858 至 1956】【法国人】
创作年份	公元 1883 - 公元 1887
创作地区
分类
尺寸
介绍（中）	这件礼服是在维多利亚女王（1819-1901）的宫廷中向丹麦的亚历山德拉公主（1844-1925）赠送的。被赠送给皇室是当时许多美国人的愿望，也是在这种情况下购买如此精致的礼服的理由热闹的轮廓虽然主要与19世纪后半叶有关，但起源于早期的时尚，如17世纪末18世纪初的曼图和18世纪末19世纪初的帝国连衣裙。19世纪60年代末，这种全面的喧闹轮廓首次出现在维多利亚时代，最初是裙子的丰满感转移到裙子的后面。这种丰满感是在散步时系上的，形成了一种时尚的蓬松感。这款引领潮流的泡芙经过扩展，然后由各种不同的东西支撑而成，如马毛、金属箍和羽绒。这一时期的风格通常取自历史灵感，并采用各种类型的装饰和蕾丝。配饰很娇小，可以把重点放在精致的大礼服上。1874年左右，风格发生了变化，裙子开始紧贴前面的大腿，而后面的喧闹则减少为从腰部到火车的自然流动。这一时期的特点是深色、不对称的窗帘、超大的配饰和全长外套形成的细长形状。在19世纪80年代初，潮流再次发生了变化，包括热闹，这一次它将达到最大的潜力，一些裙子的背面看起来像一个完整的架子。首选的致密纺织品覆盖着镶边、珠饰、蓬松感和蝴蝶结，以在视觉上进一步提升它们的档次。女性的轮廓一直延续到1889年，直到裙子开始减少，为S曲线轮廓让路 Charles Frederick Worth出生于英国，年轻时在伦敦的纺织商工作，同时在博物馆研究艺术史。1845年，他搬到巴黎，做过推销员和裁缝，1858年与奥托·博伯格合作开设了沃斯和博伯格裁缝店。他们很快就得到了皇室的认可，并取得了重大成功。1870年，沃斯成为该公司的唯一所有者。在他的店里，沃斯制作了完整的作品，然后用现场模特向客户展示。然后，客户可以根据自己的规格订购他们最喜欢的产品。这种方法是高级定制的起源。沃斯设计的礼服是一件艺术作品，通过精心挑选的纺织品和装饰完美地展现了色彩和纹理。他在每件衣服上使用的纺织品数量之多证明了他对纺织业的尊重和支持。沃斯的创作成果在他的一生中一直保持着其水准和知名度。这项业务在他的儿子、孙子和曾孙的指导下持续了20世纪上半叶。
介绍（英）	This grand dress was worn for a presentation to Princess Alexandra of Denmark (1844-1925) at the court of Queen Victoria (1819-1901). Being presented to royalty was an aspiration for many Americans at the time and justifies the purchase of such an elaborate gown for such a situation. The bustle silhouette, although primarily associated with the second half of the 19th century, originated in earlier fashions as a simple bump at the back of the dress, such as with late 17th-early 18th century mantuas and late 18th- early 19th century Empire dresses. The full-blown bustle silhouette had its first Victorian appearance in the late 1860s, which started as fullness in skirts moving to the back of the dress. This fullness was drawn up in ties for walking that created a fashionable puff. This trendsetting puff expanded and was then built up with supports from a variety of different things such as horsehair, metal hoops and down. Styles of this period were often taken from historical inspiration and covered in various types of trim and lace. Accessories were petite and allowed for the focus on the large elaborate gowns. Around 1874, the style altered and the skirts began to hug the thighs in the front while the bustle at the back was reduced to a natural flow from the waist to the train. This period was marked by darker colors, asymmetrical drapery, oversize accessories and elongated forms created by full-length coats. Near the beginning of the 1880s the trends altered once again to include the bustle, this time it would reach its maximum potential with some skirts having the appearance of a full shelf at the back. The dense textiles preferred were covered in trimming, beadwork, puffs and bows to visually elevate them further. The feminine silhouette continued like this through 1889 before the skirts began to reduce and make way for the S-curve silhouette. Charles Frederick Worth was born in England and spent his young adulthood working for textile merchants in London while researching art history at museums. In 1845 he moved to Paris and worked as a salesman and a dressmaker before partnering with Otto Bobergh to open the dressmaking shop, Worth and Bobergh, in 1858. They were soon recognized by royalty and major success followed. In 1870 Worth became the sole proprietor of the business. At his shop, Worth fashioned completed creations which he then showed to clients on live models. Clients could then order their favorites according to their own specifications. This method is the origin of haute couture. Worth designed gowns which were works of art that implemented a perfect play of colors and textures created by meticulously chosen textiles and trims. The sheer volume of the textiles he employed on each dress is testimony to his respect and support of the textile industry. Worth's creative output maintained its standard and popularity throughout his life. The business continued under the direction of his sons, grandsons and great-grandsons through the first half of the twentieth century.