披肩 - 美国大都会艺术博物馆展品查阅

品名（中）	披肩
品名（英）	Shawl
入馆年号	2009年，2009.300.3038
策展部门	服装研究所（Costume Institute）
创作者
创作年份	公元 1860 - 公元 1869
创作地区
分类
尺寸
介绍（中）	这条复杂的披肩有着精细编织的法国披肩的印记，天鹅绒般的感觉和光滑的背部，这是剪裁过程的结果。圆锥形的优雅曲线和内部边界表明了它的法国起源。签名也很有趣，因为制造商的标志被编织到披肩中，以模仿印度披肩刺绣制造商标志的风格。签名法国披肩是印度以外制造的披肩中质量最高的从18世纪末到19世纪70年代，披肩作为高级时尚配饰在相当长的一段时间内占有一席之地。这些配饰最初是通过贸易公司接触印度和波斯的男性所采用的。18世纪末不断变化的时尚使人们重新对印度和波斯披肩产生了兴趣，将其作为时尚帝国廓形连衣裙中薄薄纱的一种保暖形式。披肩有许多设计，通常都采用了boteh形式。这种形式，现在大多被称为佩斯利，是一种古老的波斯设计，以生命之树为基础，灵感来自芽、锥和棕榈叶。这些物品是手工编织的，成本极高，这激发了欧洲制造商试图为大众生产更便宜的复制品。机器编织复制印度披肩的主要中心变成了苏格兰的佩斯利。这个地方的披肩在市场上非常显眼，因此披肩的样式和形状通常被称为佩斯利披肩。1801年提花织机的发明在19世纪20年代首次在佩斯利使用后，进一步提高了生产力并降低了成本。其他设计的披肩也在这个时候生产出来，尽管它们从未达到印度、波斯和佩斯利披肩的流行程度 19世纪70年代，披肩因其巨大的尺寸和帮助支撑披肩的裙摆而不再流行。许多原始的印度和波斯披肩由于成本原因，几代人都被保留为传家宝，而更便宜的复制品有时会被改成更时尚的喧闹轮廓斗篷。
介绍（英）	This intricate shawl has the mark of a finely woven French piece with its velvety feel and the appearance of a smooth back, which is the result of the clipping process. The elegant curving lines of the cone shapes and the interior border indicate its French origins. The signature is also of interest in that the maker's mark is woven into the shawl to imitate the style of the embroidered makers' marks of Indian shawls. Signed French shawls are of the highest quality of the shawls made outside India. The shawl held a place as a high fashion accessory for a relatively large period between the end of the 18th century to the 1870s. These accessories were originally adopted by men with exposure to India and Persia through the Trading Companies. The changing fashions near the end of the 18th century brought a renewed interest in Indian and Persian shawls as a form of warmth over the thin muslins of fashionable Empire silhouette dresses. The shawls came in many designs which generally incorporated the boteh form. This form, which is mostly known as the paisley now, is an ancient Persian design based upon the tree of life and inspired by buds, cones and palm fronds. These objects were hand woven and extremely costly which inspired European manufacturers to attempt to produce cheaper copies for the masses. The primary center for machine woven reproduction Indian shawls became Paisley, Scotland. The shawls from this location were so prominent on the market that the style and boteh form of the shawls has been generally referred to as paisleys since. The invention of the Jacquard loom in 1801 increased productivity and reduced costs even further after its first use in Paisley in the 1820s. Other designs of shawls were also produced at this time, albeit they never reached the popularity of the Indian, Persian and Paisley shawls. In the 1870s the shawl lost popularity due to its immense size and the reducing expanse of skirts to help support them. Many of the original Indian and Persian shawls had been retained as heirlooms through generations due to their cost while cheaper reproductions were sometimes altered into a more fashionable bustle silhouette mantle.