披肩 - 美国大都会艺术博物馆展品查阅

品名（中）	披肩
品名（英）	Shawl
入馆年号	2009年，2009.300.2963
策展部门	服装研究所（Costume Institute）
创作者
创作年份	公元 1830 - 公元 1850
创作地区
分类
尺寸
介绍（中）	这是一个特别复杂的图案，编织于欧洲披肩制造中心之一，可能是苏格兰佩斯利。掌纹边界图案似乎与16世纪的纺织品词汇有关，而boteh则改编自印度和波斯的形式。有两种颜色的外边界是不寻常的，这看起来像是在应用，但实际上它都是由一块织成的从18世纪末到19世纪70年代，披肩作为高级时尚配饰在相当长的一段时间内占有一席之地。这些配饰最初是通过贸易公司接触印度和波斯的男性所采用的。18世纪末不断变化的时尚使人们重新对印度和波斯披肩产生了兴趣，将其作为时尚帝国廓形连衣裙中薄薄纱的一种保暖形式。披肩有许多设计，通常都采用了boteh形式。这种形式，现在大多被称为佩斯利，是一种古老的波斯设计，以生命之树为基础，灵感来自芽、锥和棕榈叶。这些物品是手工编织的，成本极高，这激发了欧洲制造商试图为大众生产更便宜的复制品。机器编织复制印度披肩的主要中心变成了苏格兰的佩斯利。这个地方的披肩在市场上非常显眼，因此披肩的样式和形状通常被称为佩斯利披肩。1801年提花织机的发明在19世纪20年代首次在佩斯利使用后，进一步提高了生产力并降低了成本。其他设计的披肩也在这个时候生产出来，尽管它们从未达到印度、波斯和佩斯利披肩的流行程度 19世纪70年代，披肩因其巨大的尺寸和帮助支撑披肩的裙摆而不再流行。许多原始的印度和波斯披肩由于成本原因，几代人都被保留为传家宝，而更便宜的复制品有时会被改成更时尚的喧闹轮廓斗篷。
介绍（英）	This is a particularly intricate pattern woven in one of the European shawl manufacturing centers, probably Paisley, Scotland. The palmette border pattern seems to relate to 16th-century textile vocabulary while the boteh is adapted from the Indian and Persian form. It is unusual to have an outer border in two colorways which gives the appearance of being applied but in fact it is all woven of one piece. The shawl held a place as a high fashion accessory for a relatively large period between the end of the 18th century to the 1870s. These accessories were originally adopted by men with exposure to India and Persia through the Trading Companies. The changing fashions near the end of the 18th century brought a renewed interest in Indian and Persian shawls as a form of warmth over the thin muslins of fashionable Empire silhouette dresses. The shawls came in many designs which generally incorporated the boteh form. This form, which is mostly known as the paisley now, is an ancient Persian design based upon the tree of life and inspired by buds, cones and palm fronds. These objects were hand woven and extremely costly which inspired European manufacturers to attempt to produce cheaper copies for the masses. The primary center for machine woven reproduction Indian shawls became Paisley, Scotland. The shawls from this location were so prominent on the market that the style and boteh form of the shawls has been generally referred to as paisleys since. The invention of the Jacquard loom in 1801 increased productivity and reduced costs even further after its first use in Paisley in the 1820s. Other designs of shawls were also produced at this time, albeit they never reached the popularity of the Indian, Persian and Paisley shawls. In the 1870s the shawl lost popularity due to its immense size and the reducing expanse of skirts to help support them. Many of the original Indian and Persian shawls had been retained as heirlooms through generations due to their cost while cheaper reproductions were sometimes altered into a more fashionable bustle silhouette mantle.