头饰 - 美国大都会艺术博物馆展品查阅

品名（中）	头饰
品名（英）	Headdress
入馆年号	2009年，2009.300.1713
策展部门	服装研究所（Costume Institute）
创作者
创作年份	公元 1800 - 公元 1899
创作地区
分类
尺寸
介绍（中）	这件物品来自Natalia de Shabelsky（1841-1905）的收藏，她是一位俄罗斯贵族，被迫保留她认为正在消失的祖国民间艺术传统。她游历了整个大俄罗斯，收集了许多富农阶级纺织艺术的优秀范例。从19世纪70年代到1902年移居法国，沙贝尔斯基收集了大量刺绣精美的手工编织家用纺织品和装饰丰富、图案精致的节日服装。布鲁克林博物馆的藏品包括许多精美的例子，包括大部分服装。沙贝尔斯基的部分藏品也收藏在波士顿美术博物馆、克利夫兰美术馆和圣彼得堡俄罗斯民族志博物馆头饰或kokoshniks是俄罗斯所有服装中装饰最丰富的。它们通常是用镀金金属线编织的锦缎或用金色刺绣的天鹅绒制成的。富裕的农民阶级用珍珠和宝石装饰他们的kokoshniks。它们的装饰元素代表了它们所处的地区。那些来自北方的人用该地区丰富的河珍珠装饰，而鹅绒和羊毛刺绣在南方更受欢迎。少女们戴的头饰暴露了她们的头发，在俄罗斯文化中被认为是一种战利品。他们通常会配上一个venchik，一种由织物或金属制成的前额遮盖物。已婚妇女被要求完全遮住头发，以免被认为是不庄重的。这个例子除了使用半宝石作为装饰外，还使用了彩色箔。
介绍（英）	This object is from the collection of Natalia de Shabelsky (1841-1905), a Russian noblewoman compelled to preserve what she perceived as the vanishing folk art traditions of her native country. Traveling extensively throughout Great Russia, she collected many fine examples of textile art of the wealthy peasant class. From the 1870s until moving to France in 1902, Shabelsky amassed a large collection of intricately embroidered hand-woven household textiles and opulent festival garments with rich decoration and elaborate motifs. The Brooklyn Museum holdings include many fine examples including the majority of the garments. Portions of Shabelsky's collection are also housed at the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, the Cleveland Art Museum, and the Russian Museum of Ethnography in St. Petersburg. Headdresses, or kokoshniks had the greatest abundance of ornamentation of any type of garment in Russia. They were most often made of damask woven with gilt metallic threads or velvet with gold embroidery. The wealthy peasant class decorated their kokoshniks with pearls and gemstones. Their decorative elements were representative of the regions in which they were made. Those from the North were embellished with the river pearls that were plentiful in that area while goose down and woolen embroideries were more popular in the South. The headdresses worn by maidens exposed their hair, considered a prize possession in Russian culture. They were often accompanied by a venchik, a forehead covering made of fabric or metal. Married women were required to cover their hair entirely lest they be considered immodest. This example uses colored foil in addition to semi-precious stones for decoration.