晚礼服 - 美国大都会艺术博物馆展品查阅

品名（中）	晚礼服
品名（英）	Evening coat
入馆年号	2009年，2009.300.94
策展部门	服装研究所（Costume Institute）
创作者	House of Worth【1858 至 1956】【法国人】
创作年份	公元 1898 - 公元 1902
创作地区
分类
尺寸
介绍（中）	历史主义是沃斯之家的一个主要标志，始于查尔斯·弗雷德里克·沃斯对通过博物馆研究历史服装的兴趣。这件晚礼服很容易就融入了都铎王朝的肖像画，带有都铎玫瑰图案，以及16世纪另类的全袖、立领和不合身风格的睡衣轮廓。沃斯巧妙地操纵织物，在后面板上创造了一个全新的图案，并敏锐地观察在顶部创造微妙的黑对黑图案，以抵消裙子中玫瑰的鲜明对比让-菲利普·沃斯于1875年开始担任父亲查尔斯·弗雷德里克·沃斯的助手。渐渐地，他被允许创作自己的设计，当他的父亲于1895年去世时，他成为了这所房子的首席设计师。他因在独特的纺织品上制作精致的艺术礼服而受到赞扬，就像他父亲在他之前一样。尽管在世纪之交，沃斯之家仍然受到皇室和名人的青睐，但1900年后，他们的风格不再是法国时尚的前沿。1910年左右，让-菲利普将他的设计工作限制在重要订单上，并聘请他的侄子让-查尔斯·沃斯担任新的首席设计师，然后在第一次世界大战后完全离开公司。
介绍（英）	Historicism was a major hallmark of the House of Worth beginning with Charles Frederick Worth's interest in studying historical costume through museum research. This evening coat readily includes iconography of the Tudors with a Tudor rose pattern alongside the silhouette of alternative 16th century negligées in the full sleeves, standing collar and unfitted style. Worth ingeniously manipulates the textile to create an entirely new pattern on the back panel and has a keen eye for the creating the subtle black on black patterning on the top to counteract the stark contrast of the roses in the skirt. Jean-Philippe Worth began as an assistant to his father, Charles Frederick Worth, in 1875. Gradually he was allowed to create his own designs and when his father died in 1895, he became the lead designer for the house. He was praised for making elaborate artistic gowns with intricate trimmings on unique textiles, much like his father had before him. Although the House of Worth was still favored by royalty and celebrities through the turn of the century, their styles were no longer the forefront of French fashion after 1900. Around 1910 Jean-Philippe limited his design work to important orders and hired his nephew, Jean-Charles Worth, as the new lead designer before leaving the company entirely after World War I.