披肩 - 美国大都会艺术博物馆展品查阅

品名（中）	披肩
品名（英）	Shawl
入馆年号	2009年，2009.300.3314
策展部门	服装研究所（Costume Institute）
创作者
创作年份	公元 1840 - 公元 1849
创作地区
分类
尺寸
介绍（中）	这种编织非常精细的披肩是法国织工模仿当时进口的印度和波斯披肩的精致和技巧的一个很好的例子。在某些方面，这种编织披肩的美丽超过了它的灵感，并表明这种风格的外套通常被认为是传家宝并代代相传。披肩在 18 世纪末到 1870 年代的相对较长的时期内作为高级时尚配饰占有一席之地。这些配件最初是由接触印度和波斯的男性通过贸易公司采用的。 18世纪末，不断变化的时尚使人们对印度和波斯披肩重新产生了兴趣，作为对时尚帝国廓形连衣裙的薄纱的一种温暖形式。披肩有许多设计，通常包含 boteh 形式。这种形式现在通常被称为佩斯利，是一种古老的波斯设计，基于生命之树，灵感来自芽、锥体和棕榈叶。这些物品是手工编织的，价格极其昂贵，这激发了欧洲制造商试图为大众生产更便宜的副本。机器编织复制印第安披肩的主要中心成为苏格兰的佩斯利。这个位置的披肩在市场上非常突出，以至于披肩的风格和 boteh 形式通常被称为佩斯利。 1801 年提花织机的发明在 1820 年代在佩斯利首次使用后进一步提高了生产率并降低了成本。此时还生产了其他设计的披肩，尽管它们从未达到印度，波斯和佩斯利披肩的流行程度。在 1870 年代，披肩因其巨大的尺寸和减少裙子的宽度来帮助支撑它们而失去了人气。许多原始的印度和波斯披肩由于成本而被世代保留为传家宝，而更便宜的复制品有时会被改造成更时尚的喧嚣轮廓披风。
介绍（英）	This very finely woven shawl is a good example of the refinement and skill of the French weavers in imitating the Indian and Persian shawls being imported at the time. In ways, the beauty of this woven shawl surpasses that of its inspiration and indicates how this style of outerwear was often considered an heirloom and handed down through generations. The shawl held a place as a high fashion accessory for a relatively large period between the end of the 18th century to the 1870s. These accessories were originally adopted by men with exposure to India and Persia through the Trading Companies. The changing fashions near the end of the 18th century brought a renewed interest in Indian and Persian shawls as a form of warmth over the thin muslins of fashionable Empire silhouette dresses. The shawls came in many designs which generally incorporated the boteh form. This form, which is mostly known as the paisley now, is an ancient Persian design based upon the tree of life and inspired by buds, cones and palm fronds. These objects were hand woven and extremely costly which inspired European manufacturers to attempt to produce cheaper copies for the masses. The primary center for machine woven reproduction Indian shawls became Paisley, Scotland. The shawls from this location were so prominent on the market that the style and boteh form of the shawls has been generally referred to as paisleys since. The invention of the Jacquard loom in 1801 increased productivity and reduced costs even further after its first use in Paisley in the 1820s. Other designs of shawls were also produced at this time, albeit they never reached the popularity of the Indian, Persian and Paisley shawls. In the 1870s the shawl lost popularity due to its immense size and the reducing expanse of skirts to help support them. Many of the original Indian and Persian shawls had been retained as heirlooms through generations due to their cost while cheaper reproductions were sometimes altered into a more fashionable bustle silhouette mantle.